Creamy tannins are well-knit with flavors of crushed cherry and wild strawberry fruit, melted licorice and fragrant thyme in this enticing, full-bodied red. Zesty notes of iron and ground black pepper underscore the fruit profile, leading to the chewy finish. Long and harmonious. Best from 2023 through 2035. 250 cases made, 30 cases imported.

The 2012 Taurasi Riserva Vigna Cinque Querce is a big, dark, and smoky effort from Salvatore Molettieri. Here I'm finding a massive display of crushed black cherry, offset by sour citrus, with notes of damp earth and air-dried meats. It cascades across the palate, mixing ripe dark fruits and minerals with grippy tannins, as tongue-curling acidity adds a much-needed refreshing thrust. The structured finish goes on and on, painfully youthful, but with enough residual fruit and spice to carry its tannic clout. It will be interesting to follow the 2012 vintage through five to ten years of cellaring; at which point, it may deserve a higher score.

The Salvatore Molettieri 2012 Taurasi Riserva Vigna Cinque Querce was born in a hot vintage with dry winds that blew north from Africa for much of the summer. The primary fruit has faded, leaving in its wake some spice, leather and tar. However, the wine preserves a point of sweetness on the close that is a relic of the ripe fruit that is specific to this growing season. Try it with some spicy lamb sausage.