The 2006 Barbaresco Vigneto Valeirano is another exuberant wine. Here, too, the aromatics literally jump out of the glass, as layers of perfumed super-ripe fruit are intermingled with a persistent vein of minerality. The powerful, focused Valeirano offers outstanding balance, but needs a few years in bottle for the tannins to melt away. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021.

Plum and tar on the nose follow through a full-bodied palate, with chewy tannins and a finish of berry, cedar and wood. A little austere, with aggressive new barrel character, even slightly green wood, but should turn out just fine. Best after 2011. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.