An important and cellar-worthy wine, the Conterno Fantino 2017 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra shows ripe fruit and wild berry, with background tones of grill herb, licorice and pressed blue flowers. There are hints of eucalyptus and white pepper that add extra lift and intensity to the bouquet. This is an excellent wine that is very different from the epic 2016 vintage, which scored an extraordinary and well-deserved 98 points; this vintage does not reach that stratospheric level of complexity or depth. When it is ready to open, note that it carries an alcohol content of 15%, so an elaborate truffle meal is probably in order. Exactly 12,124 bottles were released.

The 2017 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra is another gorgeous, expressive wine in this range. Broad and ample, the 2017 captures all of the personality of this site. Dark-fleshed fruit, spice, menthol, licorice, espresso, dried flowers and pine infuse the 2017 with myriad layers of dimension. There is plenty of Ginestra energy and tannin, so a few years of cellaring is a must.

There is breadth and a beam of cherry fruit in this solidly-built red. Earth, tar, tobacco and iron accents linger beneath the fruit, while chalky tannins line the finish. Best from 2024 through 2040. 1,000 cases made, 250 cases imported.