Darkly alluring yet delicately so, the 2018 Merlot Desiderio lifts from the glass with a dusting of sweet spice, giving way to violet pastille and black currants. This is elegance personified, like pure silk slowly draped across the palate that leaves wild blueberries and savory herbs in its wake. Its super-fine tannins create a classically dry web of youthful structure as tobacco and black raspberry notes slowly fade. The balance here is remarkable, as is the evolution that has taken place with the Desiderio over time; today, Avignonesi looks for purity of fruit and refinement. The 2018 is a total success.

This is well-constituted with black cherry, plum, earth and cedar flavors, despite a firm grip of tannins holding this back for now. The supple texture offsets the underlying structure, and the finish is long. Merlot. Best from 2024 through 2033. 3,048 cases made, 264 cases imported.