Balsam herbs, cocoa and sweet white smoke give way to crushed black cherry and plum as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. This is elegance, personified, silky, deep and round, yet delivering a core of saline-minerality that creates a savory sensation - umami, in a way - with masses of ripe red fruits and confectionary spices to contrast. The tannins are sweet and round, presenting a chiseled structure, yet it's not forceful. This tapers off with a tart twang of sour wild berries under an air of lavender and violets. Wow, there is so much concentration and depth here, but also balance. In fact, there's hardly a sign of this being from a difficult vintage. While I expect it will have a shorter life than an Uccelliera Brunello from a classic year, the 2017 should not be missed.

The Uccelliera 2017 Brunello di Montalcino does a great job showcasing that extra power and brawn of the vintage and the richer textural structure of the southern side of the appellation. The bouquet is up front and beautifully measured with lots of red and purple fruit definition followed by spice, tar and earthiness. What sets this wine apart in this hot and dry vintage is the mouthfeel. It delivers fiber, flesh and soft tannins. The alcohol is a bit much at 15% in this production of 28,666 bottles.

Cherry and plum fruit flavors are allied to mint, camphor and spice flavors in this dense, powerful red, which is lively and resonates on the finish with echoes of fruit, herbs and spices. Best from 2025 through 2042. 2,388 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.