A grippy red, loaded with minerally iron, saline and smoke notes, this is fresh and tightly meshed, with flavors of roasted plum and fig fruit, cigar box and ground white pepper that start softly but expand on the palate, ringing out on finish. Drink now through 2029. 900 cases made, 200 cases imported.

Aromas of menthol, flint, crushed herb, leather and a balsamic note come together in the glass. Smooth and vibrant, the elegant palate delivers dried cherry, strawberry, star anise, pipe tobacco and mineral framed in polished tannins and bright acidity. Hold for even more complexity. Drink 2017-2027.

Tar, rose petal and succulent red cherry all give the 2007 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio a super-classic Nebbiolo profile that is simply alluring. Exotic and generous, with soft contours, the 2007 is an absolute joy to taste today. I don't get the impression the 2007 will be especially long-lived, but I am not sure that will matter to most readers. Today, the 2007 is remarkably vivid and super-expressive.