Disgorged in July 2019 with 5.5 grams per liter dosage, the NV Brut Grande Réserve is based on the 2016 vintage, complemented by around one-third reserve wines from a solera started in 1998. Much like a somewhat earlier disgorgement of the same tirage that I reviewed last year, it's showing very well, wafting from the glass with notes of pear, mandarin oil, elderflower, smoke and honeycomb. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly fleshy and precise, with a perfumed core of fruit, lively acids and a pearly mousse, it's beautifully seamless and elegant.

The NV Champagne Grand Reserve Brut is 60% Meunier, 25% Chardonnay, and the rest is Pinot Noir, with 59% coming from the 2019 harvest and the remainder from perpetual reserve. It is ripe with aromas of red cherry, berries, and a delicate vinous touch. This is matched on the palate, which is inviting and rounded with its fruit while being dry, and it has an underlying silky mineral texture. A lovely entry to the range, it is drinking wonderfully now or will continue drinking well over the next 10 or more years.

A vinous version, with a lovely skein of spice box and graphite aromatics winding through the finely meshed flavors of ripe strawberry and raspberry fruit, with salted almond accents and an underpinning of minerally chalk and smoke notes. Bright and harmonious, with a lasting, mouthwatering finish. Disgorged July 2019. Drink now through 2025.

(roughly 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir; 7 g/l dosage): Light gold. Deeply perfumed aromas of poached pear, vanilla, white flowers and toasted brioche are lifted by citrus zest. Supple and expansive on the palate, offering ripe orchard and pit fruit flavors that gain spiciness and a floral element with air. This seamless Champagne finishes long and supple, with clinging pear and honeysuckle qualities.