Ceretto's 2014 Barolo Prapo is gorgeous. Lifted, perfumed and full of life, the Prapo is a terrific example of the year. The 2014 captures the brooding personality of Serralunga beautifully while retaining a striking sense of translucency and overall nuance. Muscular, sinewy tannins enshroud this deceptively mid-weight Barolo from Ceretto.

The 2014 Barolo Prapò speaks in whispers, not in a loud voice. This Nebbiolo offers delicate tones of rose hip, forest berry, toast, scorched earth and truffle. The mouthfeel is subdued in terms of flavor intensity but not in terms of texture. In fact, that thin and compact feeling is actually surprisingly firm, silky and long. Some 6,500 bottles were released.

Though slim, this has everything in the right proportions: cherry and strawberry fruit, iron, tobacco, spice and tar flavors, refined tannins and an elegant frame. Harmonious finish. Best from 2022 through 2038. 546 cases made, 50 cases imported.