Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Cannubi 2015
|Italy, Piedmont, Barolo
Mature Marasca cherry, rose and menthol aromas mingle with new leather and clove on this structured, linear red. The firm polished palate features crushed raspberry, orange zest, licorice and tobacco framed in taut refined tannins. Drink 2022-2032.
Alluring aromas of rose, strawberry, cherry, menthol and iron are allied to a racy profile. Though firm, this red is impeccably balanced and builds to a long, energetic finish. It's complex and detailed, with lingering hints of tea and freshly cut hay. Best from 2024 through 2048. 500 cases made, 120 cases imported.
The 2015 Barolo Cannubi is open-knit and welcoming, with soft contours and lovely juiciness that really stand out. Although not exactly complex, the 2015 is well balanced. I would prefer to drink it over the next few years. The 2015 shows some elements of elevated ripeness in its slightly roasted flavors.
The Borgogno 2015 Barolo Cannubi is a low-key wine with a very low threshold for aromatic intensity. You can't just sell Cannubi on the reputation of the vineyard alone (I suppose you can, but this is not a long-term strategy) without making sure that yields and the overall winemaking philosophy is geared to making sacrifices. It is hard to understand why this wine from the well-received 2015 vintage falls short. It is one of the least intense wines from a vintage that was prized for just that: intensity. The wine ends with bitter and sour fruit.