Dense and firmly structured, this red is saturated with black cherry, black currant, mineral, spice, tar and tobacco flavors. Though balanced, with refined tannins and lively acidity, the fruit is muted now and seems to be shutting down. Fine length shows the potential, but be patient. Best from 2024 through 2048.

The 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Casanova II Puro is a wine for the cellar. Bright acids and beams of tannin shape this powerful, classically austere Gran Selezione from Volpaia. Lavender, spice, menthol, licorice and cloves start to emerge with some coaxing, but the 2016 is very clearly not ready to show all its cards just yet. Even so, this is a fine edition of the Puro. I hope to taste it again in another decade or so.

The Volpaia 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Casanova Il Puro is profound, mature and ready to drink. It is made with organic fruit and packaged with lengths of twine that are affixed to the front of the bottle with an elegant red wax seal. From a classic vintage, this wine opens to evolved and spicy aromas of dried fruit, prune, leather and dark licorice root. The presentation is more oxidative that I would expect for a 2016, but yet the wine is open and ready to drink. I see little need to hold out for longer aging.

Made with organically farmed Sangiovese, this has aromas of underbrush, French oak and dark-skinned fruit. Reflecting the nose, the firm, elegant palate offers coconut, vanilla, French oak and savory Mediterranean herb set against firm, close-grained tannins that leave a drying finish.