The 2017 Capela da Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage Port is principally a field blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Sousão and Alicante Bouschet aged for 18 months in seasoned vats. It comes in at 105 grams of residual sugar. This was a pre-bottling sample. I thought the regular Vesuvio was concentrated and powerful. This kicks it to the curb in those senses and takes no prisoners. In other words, it is spectacular. Showing old-school power and depth, this is very ripe and nowhere near as elegant or as fresh as most of the Symington lineup this issue. However, it revels in its power and preens. It feels like intense, traditional Port. If you have no patience and no cellar, this is a good time to stop and read other notes. This isn't for you. It grips the palate and refuses to let go. The long finish seems endless. For as much density and muscle as it showed, about 90 minutes in a glass made this seem a little fresher (although the regular Vesuvio easily outdoes it there). The Alicante and the Sousão combined (so I surmise) to give it some distinction in flavors, with hints of beef and strawberry. It's very complex. This is potentially one of the great Ports in a great vintage, but I would like to see it project something more than just ripeness and muscle in time. It also needs to maintain its balance. It doesn't seem quite as fresh as many 2017s, even if it's still potentially brilliant. Let's be a little conservative just now, because at times, this was simply impenetrable, but this certainly seems like a superstar in the making.

Intense, with a terrific beam of blueberry, açaí and blackberry puree flavors coursing along, flanked by graphite and baker's chocolate notes and scored by streaks of licorice snap on the finish. A subtle violet accent weaves in the background, giving this lift and contrast. Offers a sappy, concentrated finish. Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, Sousão and Touriga Franca. Best from 2035 through 2055. 472 cases made, 38 cases imported.

The 2017 Capela da Quinta do Vesuvio is the fourth release named after the quinta's chapel. Its vines were one of the first planted after the phylloxera crisis and the grape varieties were co-fermented in the same lagaretes (a small lagare). It is a serious step up from the Quinta do Vesuvio: much more finesse and delineation, slightly more mineral-rich blackberry and bilberry fruit, veins of crème de cassis and camphor. I adore the harmony of this Vintage Port. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannin that caress the mouth. The acidity is beautifully judged, a somehow effortless fortified wine with a silkytextured, sensual finish with layers of luxuriant black fruit laced with clove and cracked black pepper. What a brilliant Vintage Port from the Symington family. Production is 5,184 bottles.

A ripe and juicy wine, this shows generous tannins that still allow the blackberry fruits to show strongly. The acidity and the core of dryness allow for the promise of aging. Drink this attractive Port from 2028.