Rich and ripe, a glowing mouthful of blackberry, plum, cherry and sweet spice flavors. Silky, with a finish that sails on and on. Not a huge wine, but it has intensity and feels seamless. Drink now through 2015. 100 cases imported.

The 2002 The Governor Syrah was the very first vintage of this wine. Medium-deep garnet-brick colored, it offers evolved notes of kirsch, tea leaves, tobacco and sandalwood. Medium bodied and elegantly fruited in the mouth, the delicate spicy flavors are supported by satiny tannins and medium to high acidity, finishing long with some anise coming through. Drink it now. During my visit to McLaren Vale, I tasted a small vertical of Aramis' The Governor Syrah with the winery's managing director, Lee Flourentzou. The Aramis vineyard is in Willunga, a relatively cool climate pocket just 1.5 miles from the ocean. The wines are now made by the highly skilled winemaker at Chapel Hill, Michael Fragos. Only 300-400 cases of the winery's flagship, The Governor, are made every year.