The 2017 Siepi is a total knock-out and one of the best recent vintages I can remember tasting. All the elements simply fall into place. Succulent dark cherry, spice, chocolate, leather and licorice build as the 2017 gains volume in the glass. Sangiovese and Merlot have rarely been so complementary. The 2017 is a gorgeous wine that o!ers plenty of the richness readers have become accustomed to over the years, but in a slightly less extracted style.

Black cherry, plum and tobacco flavors mark this rich, fleshy red, which is fruity up front, turning firmer and drier on the finish, where cherry, almond and tobacco notes echo. Fine overall balance and length, with a beam of fruit at the very end. Sangiovese and Merlot. Drink now through 2024. 2,458 cases made, 250 cases imported.

The Mazzei 2017 Siepi is a bit big-boned and chunky, especially when tasted right after the fabulous 2016 vintage. This hot-vintage wine produces heavier aromas of tarry spice and tarmac. The fruit comes off as ripe but not jammy, with blackberry and cherry preserves. A pretty mineral note reminds us that Siepi is given time to integrate in cement vats after 18 months in a combination of French barrique and large oak casks. The wine seems to have matured quickly since the last time I tasted it, and I am shortening the suggested drinking window as a result. Production was just shy of 30,000 bottles.