This red displays camphor, macerated cherry, plum, hay, white pepper and earth flavors, backed by a dense, burly structure. It's compact today, yet lingers, suggesting it has something in reserve. Concentrated and long, if a bit chunky. Best from 2024 through 2050. 500 cases made, 85 cases imported.

Borgogno's 2015 Barolo Fossati offers good brightness and energy to match its mid-weight frame. Iron, sweet red fruit, wild flowers and mint give the 2015 an attractive upper register. Most importantly, the 2015 is impeccably balanced, with just enough fruit to stand up to the edgy Fossati tannins. This is very nicely done.

Drawing fruit from La Morra, the Borgogno 2015 Barolo Fossati is another wine that boasts amazing DNA and then falls short of expectations. What's missing here is varietal purity and definition on the bouquet. The aromas feel muddled and confused. To be honest, the Fossati is one of the better wines in the bunch, but by this point in my tasting, disappointment is setting in.