The 2018 Gattinara Riserva San Francesco is a wine of notable savory aromatic intensity. Fruit seems to be more in the background here, yet all the elements are so nicely balanced. There is a bit of new oak imprint at this stage, but time in the glass helps this open considerably. The San Francesco is a Gattinara of texture more than anything else.

A rich red, with good cut and hints of truffle, mineral and woodsy funk shading a core of cherry and raspberry fruit. Harmonious and firm, extending on the long, iron-tinged aftertaste. Ready to enjoy, yet should age at least another decade. Drink now through 2035. 300 cases made, 90 cases imported.