Subdued at first, this wine awakens with a little air, as notions of citrus foliage, lemon zest and Mandarin emerge. The palate presents these flavors with purity and verve, adding earthy depth against which the lemon freshness shines. It's taut, concentrated and lovely now but has the stuffing to go the distance. Drink 2018-2030.

White peach and mirabelle are tinged with crushed stone on the nose and on a firm, compactly concentrated palate. Piquant hazelnut and invigoratingly sizzling lime zest combine with generously juicy fruit and tactile stoniness on a brightly and animatingly sustained, crystal-clear finish.