The estate's 2006 Roero Riserva Renesio is the most complete of these 2006 Roeros from Malvira. Deceptively medium in body, the Renesio flows with ripe, juicy cherries, tobacco and spices in a firm style that requires patience. There is a weightless elegance to the Renesio I find compelling and totally engaging. The Renesio shows just how elegant Nebbiolo from Roero can be. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021.

The estate's 2006 Roero Riserva Renesio is the most complete of these 2006 Roeros from Malvirà. Deceptively medium in body, the Renesio flows with ripe, juicy cherries, tobacco and spices in a firm style that requires patience. There is a weightless elegance to the Renesio I find compelling and totally engaging. This shows just how elegant Nebbiolo from Roero can be.

A touch of apple skin and orange zest opens this light, garnet-colored Riserva Roero. You'll also get tar, licorice and spice. The wine shows characteristic Nebbiolo astringency in the mouth.