Disgorged in January 2019 with seven grams per liter dosage, Varnier-Fannière's 2012 Brut Grand Vintage is a concentrated, powerful wine that bursts from the glass with aromas of ripe lemons, fresh peach, yellow apples, honeycomb and brioche. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad-shouldered and muscular, with a ripe core of fruit, lively acids and a long, saline finish. This is a compellingly vinous blanc de blancs from parcels in Avize, Oger and Cramant, and it will only improve with time on cork.

The 2012 Grand Vintage is just gorgeous. It is also the most aromatic and nuanced of these wines. White flowers, mint, peach and spice all infuse the 2012 with striking complexity. The natural breadth and richness of the year comes through in a soft, silky, beautifully perfumed Champagne that will drink well right out of the gate.

An elegant Champagne, fine and creamy on the palate, and with fresh acidity and a hint of minerally oyster shell enlivening flavors of apricot, almond biscotti and candied lemon peel. Disgorged July 2019. Drink now through 2027. 20 cases imported.