Broad and warm, featuring a mouthful of plum, black cherry and oak spice flavors, with a hint of tobacco. Solidly built and balanced, but could use a year or two to fully integrate the oak. Best from 2021 through 2033.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques ler Cru is missing a bit of attack on the nose. There is plenty of red cherry and strawberry fruit here, but it needs more vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a little tinniness, attenuating slightly on the finish.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux-Saint-Jacques was dominated by its new oak when I tasted it, displaying a drying and fleeting finish.