The 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Coltassala is striking. Rich and ample, with tremendous depth, the 2017 shows all of the mystique that makes Sangiovese so alluring. Sweet dark cherry, dark plum, leather, licorice, menthol and tobacco build as the 2017 shows off its breadth and personality. The Coltassala has a bit more volume and oak influence than the other Volpaia wines, but it's an approach that works so well here.

Aromas of exotic spice, dried aromatic herb, camphor and wood shop shape the nose. The austere palate shows dried cherry, prune and licorice alongside close-grained tannins that clench the lean finish. Give it a few more years so the tannins can unwind then drink sooner rather than later to capture the remaining fruit.