The Salicutti 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione (closed with a black wax capsule) is pure and genuine in character, but it also shows simple lines and not as much depth as we saw in the previous vintage. However, if the goal in 2017 was to avoid overt ripeness or heaviness, those two objectives have been accomplished quite successfully in this wine. Aromas of wild cherry, rose and grilled herb are lifted and pretty, and the wine shows varietal character that is especially pure. Fruit comes from the tiny Piaggione vineyard, which measures just over a hectare and is farmed meticulously by hand. Production is 5,692 bottles.

Game, camphor and blue flower aromas make their way to the forefront along with crushed fennel seed. The firm, elegantly structured palate offers juicy strawberry, blood orange and star anise alongside baking spice accompanied by taut, polished tannins. Bright acidity keeps it lifted and fresh. Drink 2024-2029.

This supple red is marked by macerated cherry, plum, fruit cake, floral and leather aromas and flavors. Lively and balanced, with a light coating of tannins on the long aftertaste. Best from 2024 through 2040. 500 cases made, 444 cases imported.