Shimmering orange-pink. Powerful, oak-spiced aromas of nectarine, strawberry, blood orange, vanilla and honey, plus a hint of smoky minerality in the background. Deep-pitched, mineral-driven red berry and pit fruit flavors pick up fennel, vanilla and candied lavender nuances with air. Clings with serious tenacity on the penetrating finish, leaving notes of peach nectar and raspberry preserves behind. Fermented in new Austrian oak demi-muids and raised in concrete tanks.

This wine is a rich, smooth blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. The ripe, smooth texture gives intensity and complexity to this wine that should be ready to drink from late 2019. ROGER VOSS

A partly barrel-fermented (in Austrian demi-muids) blend of Syrah, Grenache and Rolle, the 2018 Cotes de Provence Sainte Victoire 946 is a spicy, oaky wine, completely different in style from most Côtes de Provence rosés. But once you wrap your head around the style, it's an impressive effort, offering enough citrus, melon and peach flavors to support the wood. Just drink up, as I suspect with time the wood will dominate.