Bright ruby in the glass, Pira's Marenca 2019 shows a bright definition of liquorice stick with vibrant violet and a bergamot-like citrus note. The attack is elegant, refreshing and savoury, but then the palate is dominated by firm, grainy tannins with a dusty yet sweet finish. A greatly powerful wine which deserves attention for its ageing ability.

A bit more reserved now, the 2019 Barolo Marenca is ripe with kirsch, tobacco, leather, and anise and is a more meditative wine that will need time to unfurl. It takes on even more power and structure on the palate, with ripe muscular tannins and ample fruit throughout. Full-bodied, with notes of ripe cherry, tea leaf, and turned earth, this one demands time. Drink 2026-2046.