A meaty, muscular version, this red displays black cherry, blackberry, tar, leather and iron aromas and flavors, offering a beam of fruit within a tightly wound, vibrant structure. Fine length. Sangiovese and Canaiolo. Best from 2024 through 2045.

The 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto San Marcellino is a dense, packed wine. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2016 is an infant. Super-ripe blue/purplish fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and menthol build in the glass. The 2016 is dense and opulent, and yet the acids pulse with energy, lending a feeling of translucence that becomes especially apparent on the finish. That combination makes for a compelling Gran Selezione that should age well for 15-20 years or more.