The latest rendition of Hébrart's NV Brut Premier Cru Sélection, disgorged earlier this year, is derived largely from Mareuil-sur-Ay, supplemented by some 13% from Chouilly. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, white flowers and fresh pastry, it's medium to full-bodied, with good concentration and structure in a charming format, concluding with an elegantly chalky finish.

A sleek Champagne, mouthwatering and refined in texture, offering a creamy, well-meshed blend of crème de cassis, toast point, crystallized honey and lemon curd. Disgorged December 2018. Drink now through 2021.

The NV Brut Sélection is a bit slender, but good for a wine based on the 2011 vintage. Even with time in the glass, the Sélection remains a touch narrow, but there are none of the green or vegetal notes that mar so many other Champagnes based on 2011. This release is 70% Pinot Noir (from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ) and 30% Chardonnay (from Oiry and Chouilly), 55% 2011, 24% 2010, 21% 2009 vintages. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: April 2016.

Fruity, soft, with attractive green apple and pineapple flavors, a fresh, lightly sweetened style.