Other vintages

Best's rugged location in the Grampian ranges of western Victoria is as far from the hot, dry desert image of Oz as it gets. Combine the region's wet, cool climate with a unique and historic winery, and the results are generally excellent. This Riesling is young and austere but promises great things for the future. A slight petrol note on the nose is quickly followed by delicate honeyed nuts, bright lemon-lime, lavender and dried green herbs. The palate is a tightrope walk of pristine acidity, slippery texture and bright fruit. Drink 2021-2030, at least.

Scents of crushed stone, lemon and lime zest and hints of green apple permeate the nose of the 2018 Riesling. It's a lean, racy wine, light to medium-bodied, weighing in at 11% alcohol, yet with presence, concentrated fruit flavors and length, which shows how irrelevant numbers can sometimes be. Like many of the world's fine Rieslings, it should drink well over a broad range of years-at least through 2030.