Very perfumed with sweet-berry and fresh-flower aromas that already show brightness and beauty. Perfumed. Full-bodied with very well-integrated tannins and pure, vivid fruit at the finish. This is all in finesse and depth. Drinkable now, but better in a couple of years." 10/21

Luca Sanjust's Petrolo 2020 Torrione comes from a cool vineyard site surrounded by thick green forests. Made primarily with Sangiovese (and smaller parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot), the wine delivers beautiful fruit freshness with forest berry, cherry, blue flower and grilled herb. Production was down to about 35,000 bottles in this vintage (from about 60,000) because some of the Sangiovese was used in the Bòggina C single-vineyard wine instead. This is a highly accessible and enjoyable organic wine with a linear approach and a pretty dusty note on the tannins. This wine was first produced in 1988.

Savory aromas of balsamic vinegar and mushroom mingle with dark chocolate, black cherry and wild fennel on the nose, with tar and graphite emerging at last before the palate offers more cherries and chocolate against pliable tannins.

The 2020 Torrione is bright, punchy and super-expressive. Lively acids cut through a core of red-toned fruit, blood orange, cinnamon and mint. In 2020, Torrione has a bit more verve than it usually does. That's not a bad thing at all.