Unfathomable depth and complexity here, with roasted dark licorice, blackberries, tar, porcini, mussels and black chocolate. A light hint of balsamic adds a savory edge, too. The seamless tannins build up gradually on the full-bodied palate. Great balance of ripeness, concentration and freshness, with a lasting finish. Drinkable now, but much better after 2025.

Released with numbered bottles, the Zenato 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Sergio Zenato (in a heavy glass bottle with 9,000 of them made) is a thickly statured and rich red wine with lots of fruit weight, big intensity and a powerful 16.5% alcoholic content. The wine is redolent of ripe and dark fruit, and there are plenty of savory and smoky notes as well. The tannins are soft and dusty.