Crab apple tartness, lime-like brightness, piquancy of apple pip and mouthwatering salinity all successfully balance residual sugar in this wine, whose sense of tension is invigorating and by no means inharmonious. Suggestions of raw almond and green herbs add interest to a juicy, firm but polished palate, leading to a clear, vibrantly sustained finish that incorporates the same cyanic glow found in Plunien’s other 2014s. “We picked the Braunfels twice,” he explained, “and this first pass, very early, incorporated almost no botrytis, with green-gold grapes that preserved green apple and fresh citrus character.” (For an attempt to disentangle Plunien’s confusing “Vols” labels – here omitting the name “Braunfels” – consult my introduction to this account of his 2014s.)