The NV Extra Brut Grand Cru Cuvee de Jean Fanniere Origine is superb. Another wine endowed with pure richness and depth, the Jean Fanniere Origine is a great example of what it takes to make a deeply expressive Extra Brut Champagne, which is to say the fruit has to be beautiful and ripe, just as it is here. Deceptively weightless and impeccable, the Jean Fanniere Origine boasts gorgeous delineation and purity. Pastry, lemon, apricots and white flowers are all woven together in this expressive, pedigreed Champagne. The Jean Fanniere Origine is 100% Chardonnay, 60% 2006 and 40% 2007 from vineyards in Cramant, Avize and Oger. Today it is absolutely striking. Disgorgement date: May 14, 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. I was deeply struck by the Champagnes I tasted from Varnier-Fanniere this year. These fine, handcrafted wines are bursting with class and personality. Great Champagne is never inexpensive, but these three wines all deliver outstanding value. Readers should do whatever they can to check out the Champagnes of this small estate in Avize. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300