San Polino's isolated vineyards sit at 400-450 metres above sea level, farmed according to permaculture, biodynamic and organic practices. Fermented with wild yeasts, and with minimal SO2 additions, the Riserva spends a short period in French barriques, although ageing is mainly in old Slavonian oak casks. Revealing subtle wafts of grilled herb and coffee, with blackberry and blackcurrant buried underneath, this is still closed, driven primarily by its minerality and intensely structured tannins. It definitely needs time.