San Polino’s Riserva is crafted from a south-facing plot at 450 metres. After spontaneous fermentation and a long 60-day maceration, this sees a short passage in barriques before long ageing in large Slavonian oak casks. It exhibits all the perfumed liquorice, curry and wild scrub nuances that a walk through the vineyard offers. It's dark fruited on the palate, where shaded woodland notes come to the fore and elegant, terracotta-like tannins give assertive mid-palate presence and structure. Then after all of that depth, the wine finishes with brightness and lightness. A gratifying ride that will gain even greater precision with time.

A biodynamic and certified-organic wine, the San Polino 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva offers more depth and complexity next to the two wines from 2017 also hitting the market now. These are qualities of the classic 2016 vintage, and they are played out to good effect in this bottle. The bouquet is redolent of ripe cherry, blackberry, spice and earthy tones, but the tannins are less aggressive in this wine. The acidity also feels brighter. 2,666 bottles were made.