Slightly funky nose (from a hint of reduction), but that only adds to the excitement of this extraordinarily expressive gruner with enormous wet-stone minerality. The very radical structure and gigantic energy bowl you over. As it aerates, notes of lemon grass, vanilla bean and resin come through. Very long, breathtakingly intense finish. From vines that are 60 to 80 years old. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.