By 2014, all of the grapes made for Cristal were being farmed biodynamically and certified organic since 2012. So alive on the nose, bursting with citrus and white fruit and floral aromas as well as some buttery toast nuances. Lemon meringue pie, summer strawberries and citrus tang on the palate - full with such a density to the texture, filling and persistent with tiny bubbles from start to finish. This has such a ‘cool’ element with minerality and a sense of tension that gives excitement and nicely offsets the more rich, round elements. Electric, clean and sharp, a thriller.

The 2014 Cristal is a terrific effort that transcends the vintage. Bursting from the glass with expressive aromas of ripe citrus fruit, nectarine, white flowers, freshly baked bread and subtle hints of honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, vinous and fleshy, with an exuberant core of fruit that's girdled by racy acids, resulting in a wine that's simultaneously chiseled and demonstrative, meaning that early appeal doesn't come at the expense of the requisite tension for long-term cellaring. Concluding with a long, aromatic and intensely chalky finish, it is a brilliant Champagne that will offer a broad drinking window. This bottle was disgorged in June 2021 with seven grams per liter dosage.