An impressive effort in the warm 2009 vintage and, as with the 2010, this shows a slightly different profile. Needing a lot of aeration to open up, aromas reveal creosote, blackcurrant cordial, black tea and pot pourri. Layers of blackberry compote and Turkish coffee flavours combine with Earl Grey tea, tar and red bell pepper. The generous texture and viscosity gives this a hedonistic feel, with surprisingly vibrant acidity and tension for its age and vintage. Gorgeous now but drinking well for another decade.

Opening with soft aromas of crème brûlée, dusty dried blackberries and aged cocoa powder, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon lingers in the glass with a firm nose and alcoholic lift. Full-bodied, the palate is slightly shy and seems to be emerging from the change, as it shows the first signs of mature elements with slightly stewed black and red fruit with a rocky essence and mineral tension, not previously seen in any of the other Cabernets of the 20-year vertical. Over the next year, as this wine fully transitions out of the change, it should continue to drink well through the rest of the 2020s. Decanting is recommended.