The 2021 Bolgheri Superiore Sondraia is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. A classic Bolgheri red, it offers up copious dark-toned fruit along with complicating notes of dried herbs, menthol, licorice, mocha, lavender and espresso.

The Poggio al Tesoro 2020 Bolgheri Superiore Sondraia (in a heavy bottle) is a big wine on all levels, with dark fruit, spicy bay leaf, exotic curry leaf, rose, tea and barbecued spice. The wine is actually quite rich, broad and textured in terms of mouthfeel. No part of the palate is untouched, as it is swept over with sweet tannins and very generous fruit. It is almost too much of good thing, with a 15% alcohol content. This is a production of 45,000 bottles.

Surprisingly, given the dominant role of Cabernet Sauvignon, there are some charming red fruit aromas; lifted, elegant and perfumed. The attack is sleek despite the alcohol, and the tannins are polished and balanced by good acidity. It's taut and remarkably delicate but has ample body. Forward but long.