The 2021 Estate Pinot Noir Pomarium is notable this vintage for its balance of concentrated fruit and vibrant freshness. Its broody scents of cranberry sauce, mushroom and conifer give way to licorice and Angostura bitters as it spends time in the glass. Its concentrated flavors defy its youthfully reluctant aromas, offering wave after wave of perfumed fruit. It has a fine, chalky frame and focused acidity that drives its long, layered finish. It drinks beautifully straight from the bottle, but it may have more to offer in another 3-5 years.

Pomarium is Latin for apple orchard. The Peay estate is a former 140-year-old apple orchard on the far West Sonoma Coast; nowadays, it is planted to Calera, Mt Eden, Swann and 667 clones, mainly the last two. The floral notes are pungent with hints of earth, frankincense and smoked cedar. This wine is 10% whole cluster; there's a red plum character with early-season tart blackberries, though there is a real woodsy character, dried pine needles, and early-season blackberry. Delicious.