The 2006 Syrah Cuvee Keltie, a 100% whole cluster Syrah that sees no new oak, is a serious, backward offering meant for long-term aging. Its dense purple color is accompanied by notes of roasted meats, ground pepper, damp earth, truffles, underbrush, and forest floor. This superbly complex, full-bodied wine possesses high tannins as well as surprisingly fine acidity despite an elevated technical pH of 3.93. Drink this intriguing, complex Syrah over the next 10-12 years. After a turbulent year at Pax Cellars, where winemaker Pax Mahle departed to start his own project, owner Joe Donelan moved quickly to bring in Tyler Thomas, who spent four years working for Burgundy’s famed proprietor of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Aubert de Villaine, at his California outpost, HDV. The first vintage where Thomas will have complete control will be 2008, although he will bottle the 2007s. Joe Donelan told me he has long-term contracts with the vineyards he and Pax Mahle had accessed, so these superb sites will remain part of the portfolio. Following are my tasting notes on the late-released 2006s and the limited portfolio of 2007s. Pax Cellars will eventually release more 2007s, but they were not ready to taste during my visit. Tel. (707) 592-0782; Fax (707) 591-0784