Brooding, concentrated and tannic, the 2015 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure will need some time to come out of its granite shell. Crushed stone and dark cherries and cassis emerge only reticently on the nose. For easier near-term drinking, grab some of the Thalabert; for serious longevity in the cellar, the Domaine de Roure will be hard to beat.

(raised for a year in oak barrels, 20 percent of them new) Youthful purple. An explosively perfumed bouquet displays intense boysenberry, raspberry, star anise and violet scents, and a smoky mineral nuance gains strength with air. Alluringly sweet, energetic red and blue fruit, spicecake and floral pastille flavors show excellent clarity and mineral lift for their heft. Supple, slow-building tannins add grip to the finish, which lingers with outstanding, floral-driven persistence. These vines are between 40 and 60 years old.

Showing concentration and power, this is a rich style with notes of black fruit, scented and oaky. Lots of ripe fruit on the palate, but a bit too much wood tannin, and the alcohol is present and powerful.