The 2004 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is the most forward of these 2004 Barolos. Made in a fruit-driven style, this plump, juicy wine is packed with sweet dark fruit. White pepper, truffles, plums and prunes develop with air, but this wine is ultimately more about immediacy than complexity. Still, it offers much pleasure. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411