The product of yet another drought vintage, the 2013 Chardonnay Estate is one of the great, age-worthy examples of this wine from Mount Eden's modern era. The nose is layered and evolving, dominated by tropical and orchard fruits, popcorn kernels, biscuits and chamomile. The palate straddles a glossy polish and impressive attack, with a finish that is notably more study and upright than surrounding vintages. Despite the numerous negative ramifications of drought vintages, the remarkable tension and tenacity displayed in these Chardonnays is some silver lining, however small.

This is from a high altitude vineyard in the Santa Cruz Valley and is made from a single Chardonnay clone. Fermented and matured in French oak, this is only just starting to unfold. The lifted, evolved nose sends notes of heady, dried citrus zest against a sonorous backdrop of earthiness. Bit by bit, more fruit shows: Japanese pear and Golden Delicious apple are cloaked in a subtle, nutty haze of smoky oak. This has come together beautifully and is ready to drink, but it will stay on its elegant plateau for quite a while yet.