The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons is beautiful, unfurling in the glass with notes of pear, white flowers, oyster shell, mandarin oil and clear honey. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a fleshy core of fruit and a bright, saline finish, it has turned out brilliantly after fully 20 months' élevage on the lees.