LITHOLOGY BECKSTOFFER DR CRANE CABERNET 750ML 2021

Winemaker Matt Sands describes the Alejandro Bulheroni bottling as “the Burgundian expression of Cabernet,” in that it is a blend of the absolute best fruit from each vintage from Napa’s top vineyards—culled together by winemakers Philippe Melka, Michel Rolland, and Matt Sands and is considered the flagship wine of the Lithology estate. It’s beautifully assembled and is entirely an intellectual wine, with heady, complex dark fruit aromas and flavours, long beams of fine tannins and a panoply of intricate nuances. The raw material includes some of the winery’s finest Beckstoffer Vineyard fruit and estate grapes—lots that could easily be blended into the single-vineyard bottlings with the named vineyard on the label. Nevertheless, here it is, and it’s a wine so brazen and structured, so densely compact that it would be a real shame to pop the cork now. I’ll re-taste this barrel sample in the spring of 2024 when it’s had another six months of bottle age, but even then, I expect it to need more time.

There are just 100 cases of the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, blended from Oakville and Saint Helena fruit. Meant to be a best-of-the-best selection and blend, it does include 10% Cabernet Franc and plenty of new French oak. It's cedary and menthol-scented on the nose, those notes joining slow-to-unfurl ripe cassis and black cherry aromas. This full-bodied, velvety-textured wine finishes with refreshing crispness and ample length.