From one of the coastal ridges, just 3.5 miles from the Pacific, pure wild raspberry aromas rise amidst forest floor and wet earth. The gentleness with which Jamie Kutch handles this fruit, the time he gives the wine to develop and the tenderness with which he harnesses the ripeness is remarkable. Perfumed fruit subtlely shimmer on the translucent, pure palate. This is about depth, about evocation, about true Pinot-ness that's beautifully captured.

The 2012 Pinot Noir McDougall Ranch (575 cases) was aged in 50% new French oak, and its alcohol came in at 13.7%. Like its siblings, it was fermented with whole clusters and will be bottled without fining or filtration. Complex notes of raspberries, black cherries, forest floor and spring flowers emerge from this enticing, potentially high class Pinot Noir. Good acidity provides delineation and freshness, and the wine possesses medium to full body as well as a pure style. It should evolve over the next decade. Tel. (917) 270-8180