The 2016 Pinot Noir McDougall Ranch is the most complete and alluring of these wines. Powerful, deep and resonant in the glass, the 2016 captures all the elements that make Jamie Kutch's wines so compelling. Smoke, tar, incense and savory herbs wrap around a core of black cherry fruit in this layered, powerful wine. I would prefer to give the 2016 at least a few years in bottle.

Located only about 5.5km from the Pacific, this super-cool vineyard sits at about 300m yet is the earliest to be picked, at the end of August. The deepest and most powerful Kutch Pinot, it shows layers of lively red fruit, mineral overtones, and a savoury spiciness.