The 2017 Riesling Estate Vineyard comes in with nine grams per liter of residual sugar, 8.2 of total acidity and 11.6% alcohol. This is sourced solely from estate vines on the eastern side of Cayuga Lake. Whew. Showing much more power and concentration than the regular Dry Riesling, this fills the mouth, grabs the palate and doesn't let go. The acidic backbone is impressive, but it is fully matched by the mid-palate. If you want to approach this now, that's on you, but it will be better in a few years and then age effortlessly. It is probably a 20-year wine. There is a hint of petrol, but just a hint. The winery produced a trio of Riesling stars this issue. This has as much of a claim to being my favorite as any of them, and I leaned a little to it. Still, every time I went back to them, I changed my mind and had a new favorite. Call it even, depending on your preference and the moment. Maybe when they settle down, develop and have a few years of age on them, that conclusion will change. There were just 87 cases produced.