Giant Steps' Yarra Valley Chardonnay is a blend of various parcels that just miss out on being part of the single-vineyard wines. In this vintage it's a blend of Sexton, Tarraford and Applejack fruit. In most vintages none of the Chardonnays go through malo, but winemaker Steve Flamsteed won't stop it if it occurs spontaneously – as here with 20% of the blend, contributing a smooth mouthfeel. There's no lees stirring, which ensures the perky acidity remains vibrant, and the eight months oak ageing (10% new) gives roundness over any wood influence. A really delicious wine this vintage, and great value for the price, packed with classic Yarra Valley lemon curd tang, lifted apple blossom and a musky melon finish.