The last wine poured at my tasting at the winery is the G.D. Vajra 2019 Barolo Bricco delle Viole. With its high vantage point in the hills west of Barolo, Bricco delle Viole is a world apart in terms of soils (with Sant'Agata marl and fossils) and even harvest times. Slow and careful ripening like the kind that characterizes fruit in 2019 renders a very delicate and ethereal expression with floral tones, wild mint and licorice. This organic wine is solid in build and structure. Indeed, Isidoro Vaira remarks that Nebbiolo tannins have changed since the 1970s and 1980s. Because of climate change and stylistic preference, they are more polished and accessible today.

Bricco delle Viole is the highest vineyard in the commune of Barolo, at 400-480 metres above sea level, and is consequently one of the last to be picked by GD Vajra. Vinified in tini followed by a 31-day maceration under submerged cap, the wine went through malo in stainless steel in spring 2020 before ageing for 28 months in 25 and 50hl Slavonian oak casks. Beautifully defined scents of its namesake violets, along with wild strawberry, red cherry, balsam and damp earth, lead to a grippy, bright, energetic and sapid palate awash with fresh acidity and violet- and lavender-infused forest fruits. A really pretty Barolo, it's so fresh, fragrant and inviting, yet with the structure to reward cellaring. 2019 was one of the longest growing seasons of the decade. Harvest here finished 23 October.