The 2021 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Rancia is the first vintage in which Rancia moves from Riserva to Gran Selezione. More importantly, Fèlsina appears to be back on track after two years, during which Rancia underperformed because of the inclusion of a parcel that did not work in the blend and contributed a slight vegetal character. The 2021 marries power and finesse in the way only Rancia can. Black cherry, leather, game, spice, licorice, tobacco and grilled herbs are all finely knit in a brooding yet elegant Gran Selezione that delivers the goods. Superb.

Now upgraded to Gran Selezione status, the Fèlsina 2021 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Rancia shows a dark fruit profile with blackcurrants and wild plum. Those black and purple fruits cede to mineral notes of crushed slate or iron ore. The finish is dusty and dry because those mineral notes are reinforced by powdery tannins.

This wine comes exclusively from the Rancia hill, where rocky, limestone marls prevail. This 2021 – the first vintage as a Gran Selezione rather than Riserva – is true to its reserved, firm character. For now, whiffs of cedar, vanilla and coffee waft furtively while the palate hints at dark, smoky berries, pulverised stone and leather. Angular in form with its structure currently dwarfing the fruit, this needs time for its tannins and oak to digest. Assertively dry on the finish.