The aromas are restrained but compelling, influenced perhaps by the herb gardens that grow alongside the vineyard. There is chamomile and verbena together with just a hint of the apricot and mango of ripe California Chardonnay. The palate is equally restrained, refreshingly steely, with a sinewy backbone of acidity supporting ripe yellow tree fruit. Malolactic fermentation was blocked but a plushness exists to the texture from battonage and there is a definite sensation of spongy compression on the mid palate, generous and delicious. The finish is pure-fruited and long. This is a lovely, refreshing wine to drink right now, light on its feet but sinewy as a dancer.

Carbone's 2020 Chardonnay is all Clone 4, planted in the 1980s. Barrel fermented and aged using a small proportion of new French oak (10-15%), the wine offers up subtle notes of roasted cashews, plus fruit that ranges from pineapple and melon to lemon and lime. It's medium-bodied, modestly silky and textured yet clean and refreshing, as malolactic fermentation is blocked.